Pilaster – Entering the quarry from the Ardburgh Road, the first buttress that comes into view on the left is Pilaster. North Gully is on its left and there is a clean vertical wall to its right.
Paradise Lost Slab – Moving further into the West Valley the rock face opens up into a wide steep slab with an ash tree at its base.
Winder’s Slab – At the very back of the West Valley a smooth slab rises up above a sloping ledge. It is split by a slanting crack just left of its centre.
Jameson 10 Wall – Crossing over to the west side of the West Valley, directly opposite Paradise Lost there is a wall, which is split horizontally at half height. The upper half is smooth and vertical while the lower half is more broken and vegetated.
Entering the West Valley from Ardbrugh Road the first significant area of rock on the left is the excellent Pilaster Buttress. This is bounded on the left by North Gully a useful descent route. Two routes are located on the small buttress just left of North Gully.
BUTLER ARMS 8m D
J. Lynam, L. Convery. 29.1.1977.
No, it’s not a pub. Start below the short square-cut corner of Dentifrice 2m left of North Gully. Climb up leftwards to a left trending slab with a flake line on its right, up this to easy ground.
DENTIFRICE 10m D
J. Lynam, L. Convery. 29.1.1977
Start as for Butler Arms. Move up to the corner, climb a little to the right or direct (harder) landing on a slab. Finish up the corner above.
NORTH GULLY 14m M
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start below the easy line left of Pilaster Buttress. Follow sloping ledges to the top. A more difficult variant is possible up the left side of the gully. A useful descent route.
C. O Connor, Summer 1994.
Two problems have been climbed above the third sloping ledge of North Gully. Climb the blunt arête on its left-hand side at 5c. The face to the left can also be climbed without using the arête 6a. Both are protected by a side runner on the right.
GRAVE * 14m S 3c
G. Jones, D. Balmer, D.A. Ducker. 13.2.1965.
Start below a corner on the left side of the Pilaster Buttress. Climb a groove up the right wall of the corner and onto the edge of the buttress. Finish directly up the crack above or move up and right onto the face and then direct to the top.
1. Direct Start VS 5a Climb the slab at the foot of the buttress below and right of the normal start and using a high flat hold above climb the edge steeply to better holds. S.R. Young 1977
2. The thin crack 1m to the left of the hand crack provides an interesting finish.
PILASTER *** 15m VS 4c
F. Maguire, A. Kopczynski. 1951.
Superb climbing up the centre of the buttress with a bold and strenuous start. Start below the centre of the Pilaster Buttress. Climb the slab and steep wall above to gain a large ledge. Move left up the ledge to reach a higher ledge and move delicately right to a large ledge and belay.
CRASH LANDING ** 15m E1 5b
K. Higgs, T. Ryan. 24.5.1976.
Similar in character but harder than Pilaster. Start at a small recess just left of the right edge of the buttress. Step up and make technical moves right to reach a flake. Pull steeply leftward to reach the large Pilaster ledge. Move up and right to finish.
PAN PAN 17m E3 6a
R. Browner, M. Duffy. 15.9.2003.
A crimpy traverse across the Solitary Confinement wall. Follow Crash Landing to the flake, then move around the arête to the thin crack. Arrange protection in the crack and borehole. Traverse right across a ramp using tiny edges to a seam which is followed to the ledge. Finish as for Bushmills.
CRUISE ARÊTE 15m E4 6b
H. Hebblethwaite. 1985.
A rather pointless route which has become a popular boulder problem. Start below the right arête of the buttress. Make trying moves up the arête to gain the flake on Crash Landing. Move up and right around the arête to gain the base of a thin crack. Climb this more easily to the top.
SOLITARY CONFINEMENT *** 15m E5 6b
H. Hebblethwaite. Summer 1985. (Top roped prior to ascent).
A fine test piece up the steep blank wall right of the arête. Start below a hairline crack. Climb this and move up and left via a series of desperate moves to a scoop at the base of the thin crack, which is followed to the top. The crux is unprotected and the landing is rather gnarly.
BUSHMILLS ** 12m E1 5b
P. McHugh. 1970.
The corner right of Solitary Confinement gives excellent strenuous climbing. Climb the corner with determination over a bulge to the ledge. Move rightward across the ledge to finish up the thin crack as for Sham Gully.
Variations: From the bulge it is possible to break out:
1. 5b Left across the wall. (J. O’Reilly, K. Sheridan, 1991).
2. 6a Right into Creeping Paralysis. (D. Branigan, 2001).
3. 5b Right into Creeping Paralysis slightly higher.
CREEPING PARALYSIS 15m E2 6a
S.R. Young, P. Brennan. 20.6.1977.
Start 3m right of Bushmills. Climb the short wall to a ledge. Step left onto the steep slab and make hard bold moves across this to gain a thin crack, which leads to a gorse-covered ledge. Finish up the diagonal crack in the wall above.
SHAM GULLY 15m VS 5b
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start 5m right of Bushmills below a vegetated gully. A hard boulder problem start, “old school V Diff”, leads to easier climbing up the slab above. Move delicately left below the vegetated section of the gully to a large ledge. Up the thin crack in the wall above.
1. The Richardson Ramp 5b H The ramp on the right provides a technical start. (R. Richardson. 1972)
2. VD. A direct finish is possible for bushwhackers.
3. VD. The left hand crack in the final wall.
4. 4b. The diagonal crack in the final wall.
CYQUEST 15m VS 5b
S.R. Young, J. Mulhall. 24.6.1972.
Start as for Sham Gully. Follow Sham Gully past the initial hard moves onto the slab. Climb diagonally right on small ledges to the top.
CIRRUS MINOR ** 12m E1 5b
J. Colton. 2.1977.
A little gem providing sustained technical interest with no protection. Follow the Richardson Ramp to a sloping yellow hold on the wall above. Move up with difficulty to gain good finger holds. Scamper right to a crescent shaped hold. Continue up and left on improving holds to the top.
BRACKET WALL ** 18m HVS 5a
F. Winder, D. O Sullivan. 1949.
Another good but poorly protected route. Start at the foot of the Richardson Ramp below a vertical drill hole. A fingery start leads to a ledge below the borehole. Pull up and stand in the quartz bracket. Continue up to gain a slab. Finish up the groove above. Variation: Bracket Wall Arête E1 5b Start just right of the normal start on a small ledge. Move left and gain an arête, follow this to finish at the top of Bracket Wall. J. Grube. 11.1982.
FIVE-TWO-Q 12m E2 5c
J. Grube, J. Price. 11.1982.
A worrying eliminate up the wall left of Charleston. Start on a small ledge directly below the finish of Charleston. Climb directly up the wall on lay-aways, finishing with a heart-stopping crux to reach the safety of Charleston.
CHARLESTON * 15m HS 4b
The obvious corner right of Bracket Wall. Follow the corner to where it steepens. Step tenuously left to a set of side pulls where a nose once was (crux), then straight up to reach better holds and the top. Variation: Direct Finish VS 4c ** Resist the traverse left and bridge steeply up the corner. T. Ryan, J. Colton. 6.1976.
NOTORIOUS ** 15m E2 5c
C. O Cofaigh, N. Diamond. 16.11.1986.
An interesting route providing some exciting moments on the undercut prow right of Charleston. Follow Charleston to where it steepens. Step right below the overhang with a blind grope for a hidden jug. Gain the arête with a strenuous pull and so reach a large belay ledge. Variation 6a The arête can also be gained from the Blood Crack ledge.
BLOOD CRACK * 15m HVS 5b
T. Ryan, B. Blake, T. Lywood. 3.1975.
A perplexing start leads to excellent finger jamming and bridging above. Start just right of the undercut prow at a thin crack. Climb the short wall onto a spacious ledge. Continue up the excellent corner which finishes all too soon.
SLAB AND NOTCH 18m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start as for Blood Crack. Follow a sloping ramp up rightwards. Pass outside a large block and climb up for 3m then traverse left across a sloping slab to exit by the easiest line.
Variation: Czech Mate D: Start just left of West Valley Chimney. Step up to a ledge with a horizontal drill-hole. Make bouldery moves onto the ledge above and exit through the V. Continue up over wide ledges to the left-trending ramp. Finish up this ramp.
E. Hicks, E. O Broin 9/6/2011 (first recorded ascent)
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 26/5/2009 (first ascent)
WEST VALLEY CHIMNEY 19m S 3c
IMC. Early 1940s.
Climb the flake to a stance, move slightly left and continue in classic style up the chimney to a gorse ledge.
Several more direct variations of the two previous routes have been climbed.
KEYHOLE 20m VS 4c
J. Lyons, P. Leonard. 14.11.93.
Start right of West Valley Chimney below a cracked overhang with a borehole. Pull strenuously past the borehole to gain a stance above, continue up the groove to join Flat Slab Grooves.
FLAT SLAB GROOVES 20m S 4a
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start just right of the West Valley Chimney below an angled slabby groove. Climb the groove to reach a small ledge on the right. Traverse delicately left below the gentle slab until it is possible to pull over onto this (dubious rock) just right of the top of West Valley Chimney. Continue easily to the top.
FLAT SLAB DIRECT 20m VD
This route takes the gentle overlapping slab. Gain the slab by flakes in a corner, continue to the overlap. From the left edge of this step onto the upper slab. Finish up this.
SIESTA 12m VS 4b
S.R. Young, M. O Shea. 3.3.1974.
Start as for Flat Slab Direct beside a huge flake. Up the corner on jugs, and make a tricky move right to gain a small quartz ledge. Step left to a ledge on the arête, move around the overlap and so reach easier ground.
SPAILPÍN * 12m E1 5c
A. Latham, S. Windrim. 19.10.1977.
A worthwhile route with a tenuous feel to it. Start at the base of Mahjongg. Climb out left onto a large flake. Continue up to a small quartz ledge. Put faith in your friction and traverse right along the narrow ramp until a series of snappy pulls through the overlap lead past a borehole to the top.
KOWABUNGA * 12m E1 5c
D. O Sullivan, J. Stark, J. Armstrong, H. Hebblethwaite. 18.8.1990.
An eliminate line with good technical interest. Follow Spailpín to the quartz ledge. Step right to a thin crack, then go straight up with a hard move through the overlap.
MAHJONGG ** 12m VS 4c
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, R. Richardson, M. Ryan, J. Butler. 22.9.1973.
Enjoyable climbing up the thin crack right of Spailpín. Start between the bushes at the base of the crack. Follow the crack with sustained interest to the top.
DIED INTESTATE 12m HVS 5b
W Lee, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland. 24.2.1980.
Put your blinkers on for this one. Climb the slab between Mahjongg and Levitation without deviation.
LEVITATION * 14m HS 4b
P. Kenny, J. Morrison. 1950.
A nice route up the angled crack right of Mahjongg. Scramble up to the ledge below the crack. Trust your feet and climb the crack, the hardest moves being at the start. In 2010 Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown county council removed some rocks at the bottom of this (and adjacent climbs). The route is now quite different at the start – grade may be closer to S?
GARDENERS JOY 17m D
W. Perrott. 1950.
Takes the obvious scrappy line up the right side of the Mahjongg Slab. Start below the Mahjongg Slab and scramble rightwards over ledges into a corner. Follow the diagonal line back left to finish just above Levitation.
FRAGILE 17m HS 4b
S. Windrim, D. Windrim, T. Ryan. Summer 1974.
Follow an eliminate line left of Paradise Lost to the top of the flake above the wide crack. Climb straight up past a borehole to finish.
PARADISE LOST *** 17m VD
T. Calvert, W Perrott. 1950.
A justifiably popular route, providing excellent slab climbing. Start to the right of Gardener’s Joy behind a large ash tree with gnarled roots. Step up onto a ledge, move right to a thin crack and up this and the short wall above to reach a ledge below a wide crack (possible belay). Climb the crack and gain the top of the prominent flake, or climb the short rib right of the crack. Step delicately across right to a crack and up this to a large ledge. Scrambling remains. Variation: Friends in Paradise VD Climb the obvious corner and flake crack to join Paradise Lost at the base of the wide crack. J. Lyons, J. Farley. 18.11.1990.
MOONLIGHTER 20m VS 4b
J. Lyons, J. Farley. 18. 11. 1990.
Start 3m right of Paradise Lost at a clean slab just left of the corner of Friends in Paradise. Climb the slab direct to the base of a flake crack. Step right and climb a broken crack to a ledge on the right. Continue directly up the slab finishing up a shallow groove just left of the overhang.
STILL STORMING 18m VS 4c
J. Lyons, I. Lowe. 14.10.1990.
Start behind an ash tree 6m right of Paradise Lost. Climb the slab direct keeping 2m left of the vegetated line of Jacob?s Ladder all the way and finishing through a bulge.
SOLID STATE 20m VS 4c
S.R. Young. 11.11.1972.
Takes a diagonal line from the base of Jacob?s Ladder to just left of the top of Moonlighter. Follow the vegetated fault line of Jacob?s Ladder for 5m. Move left and gain a thin diagonal crack. Follow this to a point just right of the top of Paradise Lost. Thin moves on tiny holds through a slight bulge lead directly to the top.
JACOBS LADDER 18m VD
F. Winder, P. Crean. 1950.
Climbs the obvious vegetated fault line running the full height of the slab. Not recommended.
SCARFACE 17m HS 4b
J. Lyons. 15.9.1990.
Start as for Jacobs Ladder. Move up to reach the slab on the right. Follow the slab to the overlap, through this onto another slab above, which leads easily to the top.
CENTRAL GULLY 20m Ungradable
A. Kopczynski. 1951.
The daunting vegetation choked cleft to the right. A must for aspiring botanists. Start behind the ash tree. Battle your way up vegetation and loose rock. Escape is possible halfway up if you get that far. Cleaning has been recently attempted.
MASONS ROUTE 18m VS 4b
F. Winder, S. Rothery 1952.
Start just right of an ash tree below a clean orange corner. Climb straight up moss covered rock to a ledge below the corner. Move left along the ledge, then back right below a steep wall. Finish up this.
SCAVENGER ** 18m VS 4c
B. Moloney, B. O Flynn. 1962.
A stiff test of laybacking technique. As for Mason?s Route to below the orange corner. Layback the corner on positive holds pulling out leftwards on jugs to below the steep wall. Finish directly up a series of small ledges.
EXERTION * 18m HVS 5a
S. Windrim. 3.11.1973.
The top crack provides an exposed well-protected finish. As for Mason?s Route to the base of the corner. Move right to another short corner and up to below the overhanging crack in the headwall. This is climbed on bomber jams. A hidden drill hole over the top may prove useful.
The lower corner of Scavenger is often linked up with the upper crack of Exertion to produce an even better route.
Right of Mason’s Route a large block lies hidden in the undergrowth. This block was levered out of the Scavenger corner to release a cat, which was trapped behind it. As a result B Route was obliterated. The cat was apparently going for the first on sight flash. The following routes start behind the fallen block.
A ROUTE 24m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Scramble up and left to a long sloping ledge. Follow this diagonally rightwards and then straight up to another ledge. Continue horizontally left until an easy scramble leads to the top.
C ROUTE 18m HS 4b
IMC. Early 1940s.
Now blocked by a fallen tree. Scramble up and rightwards to gain the right-hand of two prominent V-grooves. Climb the groove and continue straight up over ledges to a short green corner, which leads to a ledge. Step right to an easy exit.
To the right of A and C routes is a large slab with a hanging corner above. Access to this is barred by a steep wall. The area below the wall is known to local gurus as Base Camp.
D ROUTE *** 24m S 4a
IMC Early 1940s.
Thoroughly recommended. Start just left of Base Camp. Clamber diagonally leftwards over large blocks and gain a ledge just left of the large slab. Continue directly up the cracked wall above to a sloping ledge. A tricky move up leads to a second sloping ledge and a shallow groove. Up the groove to a vertical borehole which leads with a bit of a grovel to the top.
1. Staircase Finish HVS 4c A test of one’s mettle. From the top of the shallow groove move right onto the blunt arête in a very hairy position, and climb intrepidly up on small holds to the top. R. Ohrtmann. 1953.
2. 666 E1 5b A sinister beast, unpleasant to the touch, as it crumbles under hand and hoof. From the ledge, step left and climb the centre of a triangular piece of rock to join ‘D’ Route again. R. Byrne. 9.1995.
E ROUTE ** 24m VS 4b
IMC. Early 1940s.
Extremely enjoyable, with plenty of varied climbing. Start at Base Camp. Climb the steep flake crack onto the slab (“mega” jugs at the back of the ledge over the lip). Move up, then diagonally left across the slab to large undercuts at the base of the steep wall. Follow these down and left to join D Route. Finish up this, or better still the Staircase Finish for that extra adrenalin surge. Watch out for rope drag.
Variation The Diceman E3 5c Follow E Route to the arête at the base of the steep wall. Climb the arête boldly, on its right side, to the large ledge on D Route.
C. Burns, C. Cormican, I. Mulvaney. Summer 1992. (Top roped prior to ascent).
BODY FLUID * 18m E5 6c
M. Duffy, C. Rooney. 4.1997. (Top roped prior to ascent).
The short blank corner that looms high above Base Camp provides an exasperating problem. Mere mortals need not apply. Follow E Route to the base of the hanging corner, which was breached using a pre-placed wire for protection.
BODY STRETCHER * 18m HVS 5b
T. Burke. 8.1982.
Exciting but short lived. Follow E Route onto the slab or start further to the right. Climb directly up to the base of the hanging corner. Make unlikely moves across the right wall to the ledge and an easy finish.
F ROUTE ** 18m HS 4b
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start right of Base Camp, behind a group of small ash trees. Climb leftwards up a narrow ramp with a large flake on the right. Continue up into a corner for 1m, then step right to a ledge. Move straight up to a large ledge just right of the projecting undercut block. Escape is possible here up the easy corner, however, a more dramatic finish is possible by swinging out left to gain a ledge on the protruding block. Climb the wall above on its right edge.
GAP 18m HVS 5a
J. Butler. S.R. Young. 5.5.1975.
A poor route with a hazardous start. Start just right of F Route. Make steep and committing moves up the blunt arête to a ledge. Continue up the slab and over the overlaps to finish over more broken rock.
WEST WALL 18m S 4a
IMC. Early 1940s.
The start is out of keeping with the rest of the route. Snorting is obligatory on the mantel. Start 1m right of Gap below a corner and vertical drill hole. Using the drill hole, make a deceptively awkward mantelshelf onto the ledge. An alternative start is possible further right. Steeply up the corner above to a lone sycamore tree. Continue over a large flake, and finish out right up a corner.
ASTERISK ** 16m E6 6b
D. O Sullivan. 21.8.1990. Re-climbed after the loss of a crucial flake. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
An impressively serious proposition with high chop potential. Start right of Base Camp below a steep, blank slab, which runs the full height of the cliff. Climb easily to a ledge at the base of the steep slab. Move left, and gain the short hanging crack running up the left side of the slab. This crack leads with some difficulty, but fortunately some protection, to a large ledge beside the lone sycamore tree on West Wall. (It is possible to gain the crack direct from underneath the overhang). From the ledge move up the edge to a smaller foot ledge. Summon all your bottle and launch up the arête above to give thanks at the ledge.
THE GREEN FOOL *** 16m E5 6b
H. Hebblethwaite, B. Callan. 12.5.1991. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
A heinous line up the slab right of Asterisk. Start below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up the slab to an obvious flat hold. Continue up and left on improving holds to the horizontal break. From here a wire can be placed in the Asterisk crack. Hairy moves lead to a peg runner on the right. Move back left then climb directly up the slab via a very tenuous rockover and a series of long cranks to gain the finishing moves of Gargoyle Groove Direct.
GARGOYLE GROOVE *** 16m HVS 5b
P. O?Leary, S. Harmey. 1957.
An excellent route up the shallow corner on the right-hand side of the Asterisk Slab. Start as for Asterisk below the clean slab. Move up easily to the base of the shallow corner. Hard moves, which have repelled many aspiring parties, lead to a ledge. Continue up the wall just right of the corner on small holds to the sharp arête and throw yourself into the sanctuary of the groove. Traverse right below the overhang until an awkward mantel gains the top.
Variation: Direct Finish E1 5b *** From the top sanctuary of the groove exciting moves lead out leftwards below the overhang. This provides a better finish. S.R. Young. 4.1980. Variation GARGOYLE BOLD HVS 5b Continue up gargoyle groove to the start of the groove and place gear. Instead of entering the groove, traverse across (boldly) on the outside of the groove to the top.
TANTALUS 16m HVS 5a
C. Richardson. 29.5.1975
An eliminate, escapable at a number of places. Start as for Gargoyle Groove. Move up the short corner right of Gargoyle Groove to a sloping ledge. Continue up the slab above to gain a flake on the right. >From the top of this make bold moves up the wall passing a short, shallow corner, to the overhang. Move right and finish steeply as for Gargoyle Groove.
FIFTH AVENUE * 16m HS 4b
IMC. Early 1940s.
A pleasant route. Start as for Gargoyle Groove. Climb up to a horizontal drill hole below the Tantalus Corner. Step right and move up on polished holds to a ledge. Follow the corner above to a large vegetated terrace. Up the wall above on small ledges, to finish through the overhang as for Gargoyle Groove, or move further right to breach the overhang.
TWENTY THIRD STREET 15m HVS 5a
P. Kiernan, J. Colgan. 6.1971. S. Windrim. 1975. Dispensed with peg protection.
Serious. Takes the arête right of Fifth Avenue. Start just right of Fifth Avenue. Climb the arête with scary moves onto the large ledge at its top. Finish as for Fifth Avenue.
EASY GULLY ESCAPE ROUTE 13m HVS 5b
J. Grube. 5.1984.
Climb the wall 2m right of the arête of Twenty Third Street to the large terrace. Finish as for Fifth Avenue.
NOT SO EASY GULLY 7m E3 6a
R. Byrne. Summer 95.
The faint seam up the wall near the top of Easy Gully is worthwhile but carries a health warning.
EASY GULLY 13m M
IMC. Early 1940s.
The obvious easy line to the right of Twenty Third Street provides a useful if somewhat polished descent route. The only route in the quarry to be soloed by a dog! add comment
Right of Easy Gully the cliff deteriorates into broken rock and vegetation. Two scrappy routes have been recorded here.
AW REET VD 3c
L. Convery. 7.1988.
Climbs the obvious rib, which falls to a point halfway between Easy Gully and Winder?s Slab.
PON ME SOUL VD
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 8.1988.
Climbs a ridge with an undercut pedestal block at its base 4m to the left
HENS RACE 12m VD
G. Moss. 17.7.1977.
The groove line just right of the large overhang, 3m left of Fresco. Climb the groove to the grassy ledge, step left onto the edge and up this to finish.
Further right a clean slab is split by a wide crack, the following routes start on the sloping shelf below the slab.
FRESCO 12m S 4a
F. Maguire, P. Kenny. 1951.
Takes the prominent arête just left of Winders Slab. Start on the right side of the arête. Gain the arête and follow this to the ledge. Finish either leftwards above the drill hole or move right and up the corner.
WINDERS FUNNEL 11m VS 4c
F. Winder. 1953.
Climbs the groove bounding the left edge of Winder?s Slab finishing up the vertical corner.
RASPBERRY RIPPLE * 11m VS 5a
P. MacMenamin, S.R. Young, R. Richardson. 12.6.1975.
A good route with a go for it finish. Start as for Winder?s Funnel. Follow the groove to the base of the vertical corner. Move right up the slab with difficulty to the top.
WINDERS SLAB ** 11m VS 4b
F. Winder. 1952.
Poorly protected but escape into Winder?s Crack is always possible. Start at the bottom left corner of the slab. Move up and right on small holds until they fade out. Make a committing move to reach a small hold just left of the crack and exit by a block at the top.
LITTLE WING * 11m E1 5b
S. Windrim. 1975.
Unprotected and with the crux at the top. Start just right of Winder?s Slab. Climb the slab directly to finish up the thin crack on the left.
WINDERS CRACK ** 11m D
F. Winder. 1949.
An excellent introduction. Climb the prominent crack in the middle of the slab.
BIRD BRAIN 11m E6 6b
H. Hebblethwaite, C. O?Cofaigh. 1987. (Using side runners. E2). C. Staunton. 1993, (Solo ascent after top roping).
Desperate slab climbing on microdots and finger nail edges. Climb the slab just right of Winder?s Crack to an optimistic finish.
NORTHERN EXPOSURE 11m E6 6b
K. Cooper. 2.9.1993 (Top-roped prior to ascent).
A bold eliminate line with good technical interest just left of Paul’s Edge. Start as for Paul’s Edge and climb directly via a U shaped borehole to gain a faint vertical seam, where thin moves lead to an exciting finish left of Paul’s Edge. Use of the borehole on Paul’s Edge although tempting is considered a cop out.
PAULS EDGE ** 12m HVS 5a
P. Hill. 1953.
Excellent bold climbing up the right arête of the slab with appreciable deck out potential. Start at the bottom right side of the slab. Gain the slab and move up and out right to a spacious ledge on the arête. Step left and follow the slab past a borehole with a scary move to reach good holds and the top.
ILLEGITIMATE GULLY 11m D
P. Kenny. 1951.
Start just left of the crack of Brain Drain. Climb a short steep section to the terrace. Cross the terrace and finish up the gully line on the left. Variation: Direct Finish 5a Takes the steep corner right of the top gully. T. Burke. 1985.
LUSH * 12m E7 6c
R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite. 9.9.2004.
A dangerous problem which takes on the steep wall right of Winders Slab. Follow Illegitimate Gully to the terrace and a horizontal borehole at 5m. From here pull up through the overhang to a good hold, make a long move to reach some not so good holds and crimp hard for the finishing jugs.
SCHIZO * 12m E4 6a
H. Hebblethwaite, R. Browner. 28.9.2004.
A very uphill struggle, which is similar in character to its companion Brain Drain but a full grade easier. Approach the peg from good holds on the left and ape up the steep groove above.
BRAIN DRAIN * 12m E5 6b
H. Hebblethwaite. 8.1987.
A powerful and dynamic desperate up the imposing overhanging crack right of Winders Slab. Unfortunately it is slow to dry. Climb the lower crack to a ledge on the left. Move back right (peg runner) and launch out to the base of the upper crack. Crank up this until good holds on the arête can be reached.
FOR YOUR EYES ONLY 14m E3 5c
F. Lomba. Summer 1993.
At the right hand end of the wall a hand traverse rises up leftward into a wide crack and grotty groove.
PETER PAN 15m S 3c
P. Coakley, P. Sloane. 14.7.1977.
The right hand side of the Brain Drain Wall is bounded by a short slabby V-groove. Climb the groove until it is possible to move onto the large slab on the right. Cross the slab to the overhang and finish up the left side of this.
Right of Brain Drain the impressive leaning Great Eastern Wall lies hidden among the trees.
PIT PAT 17m S 4a
P. Duggan. 1963.
At the left end of the Great Eastern Wall is a tree growing up behind a large flake whose attachment to the cliff is questionable. Follow the tree to the flake and continue up the leftward trending groove to gain a prominent ledge on the right. Move right and climb the overhang.
CHOMOLUNGMA ** 26m E6 6b
T. Burke, J. O?Reilly. June 1994. (Redpoint).
The spectacular crack line up the leaning wall left of Great Eastern. Traverse the slime, from the left, to a small sycamore tree at the base of the crack. More devious methods have been used to avoid the mire, which never dries. Powerful but technical climbing on layaways, past two dubious pegs, leads to good fingerlocks in the crack, crux. Continue up on face holds and side pulls past two more peg runners to a long move for the ledge, less dynamic for the tall. Traverse the ledge to finish at the top of Great Eastern.
Variation: Sans Oxygen Finish 6c From the ledge, step right and follow a shallow groove back left with considerable difficulty. R. Browner, J. Gillmor. 6.5.2000. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
TORCHIE FLIES WEST 23m HVS 5a
S. Windrim, T. Ryan, A. Latham. 2.8.1977.
A poor eliminate. Start 4m left of Great Eastern at the foot of a rightward trending diagonal crack. Traverse along the crack past vegetation to its end. Pull up and gain the ledge on the left. Mantelshelf onto a higher ledge and follow Great Eastern to below the overhang. Climb the overhang starting on the left.
GREAT EASTERN * 23m HVS 5b
P. O?Leary, J. Flynn. 1957. Pegged ascent. S. Windrim. 10.8.1977. First free ascent.
A good route with an impressive finale on the leaning wall. Start at the stepped break to the right of the leaning wall. Follow the break to a possible belay below the overhang. Move left airily onto the wall to a short crack, which is followed with a meaty move to gain the ledge above.
SOUTHERN COMFORT 24m VS 4b
D. Ryan, K. Higgs. 3.8.1976.
Some suspect rock! Start as for Great Eastern. Climb Great Eastern for 7m to a rightward trending crack. Follow this crack to a ledge. Finish up the slab. Variation: Direct Start E1 5b Provides a much better start. Start 2m further right at the borehole. Climb up to an undercut flake and steeply gain the break directly above. R. Fenlon, D. O’Sullivan. 1988.
DILLONS DAWN 24m E5 6c
S.R. Young. 24.3.1973, with aid. F. Lomba. Summer 1993, first free ascent.
Start 4m left of the Gnasher, gain the break (pegs) and somehow levitate up into the ferocious hanging groove (peg and sling, no longer present) to finish above.
THE GNASHER ** 24m E2 6a
S.R. Young. 8.8.1973. Solo ascent using aid. H. Hebblethwaite. 1983. First free ascent.
A vicious little test piece up the flake crack 5m left of the large sycamore tree. Climb the crack with difficulty to a painful hand jam, a lunge from this sometimes gains the horizontal break. Continue up the corner above to a ledge. Broken rock leads to the top. A sandbag at E2.
BINGLESTEIN * 24m VS 4b
A surprisingly good route with several possible variants. Takes the V-groove just left of the sycamore tree. Climb the groove to a ledge at 5m. Step right and move up to a ledge below an overhang. Possible belay (nuts). Move up and left to another ledge below a small overhang. Traverse delicately left around the edge using a wobbly block. Scrambling leads to the top.
Variations 1. Ascend the groove direct (J. Colton. 1977).
2. Take the overhang direct.
3. Climb the wall right of the normal start.
FALL OUT 25m S 4a
R. Windrim, D. Ryan. Summer 1974.
Start just right of Binglestein. Up the short wall and climb past the small overhang to the Binglestein ledge. Move across to the right hand of three slabby grooves and follow the rib in the centre to the top.
TASTEBOMB 25m S
R. Windrim, D. Ryan. Summer 1974.
Right of Fall Out is a large clump of vegetation, start just right of this. Follow broken and vegetated ledges to the right hand end of the prominent left slanting slab which is followed to the top.
GRABBER 20m VS 5a
B. Rogers, V. Price. 3.1967.
A steep route with a frustrating boulder problem crux. 15m right of Tastebomb is a large sycamore tree. Start at this. Climb the overhanging wall to a niche, peg, make a hard move left onto the slab and then move back right above the overhang and up onto a ledge. Finish rightwards.
GRIKE 20m VD
G. Jones, M. Maher. 25.1.1965.
Start as for Grabber. Climb the steep wall on good holds to a ramp trending up rightwards. Up this to a crack and onto a vegetated ledge. Finish up the wall just right of the obvious open groove. Variation: Start slightly right and climb straight up to the crack. G. Jones. 25.2.1967.
BOOGIE 12m VD
D. Windrim. 3.8.1976.
Takes the horrendously vegetated line of weakness just right of Grike. Climb directly up to an obvious slabby groove and battle through the gorse to finish.
GROUND HOG 12m HS 4a
D. Windrim, S. Windrim, K. Higgs. 8.1976.
Thrashes its way through the forest at the left hand side of the Jameson 10 wall. Starts up a groove just left of Badge. Surmount an overlap to gain the obvious ledge, follow the ledge left onto a broken block. Then climb up rightwards on small holds.
BADGE * 12m HVS 5b
K. Higgs, R. Windrim. 3.8.1976.
An unfortunately fast disappearing route due to the encroachment of vegetation. Climb the short corner 5m left of Jameson 10. Step left and continue up to an obvious ledge where the difficult finishing groove (peg) awaits.
To the right is a fine vertical wall with a greenish colour. Several excellent routes are found here.
JAMESON 10 *** 12m VS 4b
Magic climbing up the diagonal groove at the left end of the wall. Start at a blocky rib, which culminates in a large spike and ledge. Climb the rib to the overhang, which is surmounted to gain the right-hand of two shallow grooves. Follow this until it is possible to step into the left-hand groove. Finish up this. Variation: The left-hand groove can be gained direct from the overhang.
Tasmanian Devil E2 (?E3) 6a
Domhnall Brannigan, Diarmuid Duggan 24/08/2006 (TR prior to FA).
Climbs the thin crack in the headwall direct from the right groove of Jameson Ten. Climb the right stepped groove on Jameson Ten, resisting the temptation to bridge left to the other groove. Mantel/rockover precariously onto big flat hold, (good gear cluster and a hands off rest) and place a couple of reasonable tiny wires in the crack. From here a hard technical sequence on poor fingerlocks up the crack leads to a reachy topout. Very good climbing, and a true line! Note: I suspect it will be significantly harder for the short – it was a stretch for me! (Hence the split grade – needs a second ascent! – well worth doing it)
TOM TIT ** 12m E2 6a
H. Hebblethwaite, J. Price. 1985.
A route which requires a fair dash of Machiavellian cunning for success. Follow Jameson 10 to the large spike. Pull rightwards through the overhang to a stance below a thin crack. Up this with a frustratingly long reach to gain the block. A gymnastic move from this leads direct to the top.
SUPERETTE ** 12m HVS 5a
S.R. Young, D. O?Murchu. 11.11.1972. with three points of aid. 1974 First free ascent.
A good route up the crack left of the top section of Delectissima. Start 5m right of Jameson 10. Follow a short vague groove to a recess on the left. Then up to join Delectissima below the triangular niche. Move out left along a flake for 2m to gain the crack. Struggle up this to finish.
DELECTISSIMA * 12m S 4a
A. Kopczynski, J. Morrison. 11.1951.
At the right end of the green vertical wall is a triangular niche below the top. Start directly below the niche. Climb straight up the broken line over a smaller niche and overhang onto a slab. Gain the short groove above which leads to the triangular niche and a difficult finish.
CALYPSO 14m S 4a
T. Ryan, J. Butler. 11.12.1976.
Start 3m right of Delectissima below a left trending slab. Gain and climb the slab and traverse right to a large ledge. Step left and up the steep juggy wall above.
TRAMP ** 9m VS 4c
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, A. Latham. 4.10.1976.
The fine steep corner to the right is short but packs a serious punch. The top crack has spat out more then a few contenders so place your gear before it?s too late!
SHUFFLE 9m E1 5c
S. Windrim. 8.3.1977.
Precarious and poorly protected. Start as for Dirty Dick. From the base of the corner gain the grooved arête on the left. Follow this precariously up leftwards. The loose earth finish can be avoided by traversing right to finish at the top of Dirty Dick.
Variations 1. Start around the arête on its left side. Pull up and make a couple of moves to join the original route.
2. Vile Bodies * E1 5b A very worthwhile variation. Just left again is an obvious short forked crack. Climb this and pull over the small overlap direct. C. O’Cofaigh, C. Evans, I. Johnson, T. Fisher. 1987.
DIRTY DICK * 9m VS 4b
T. Ryan, K. Higgs, A. Latham. 4.10.1976.
A well-protected and enjoyable route, which requires a decisive finish. The cracked slanting corner 8m right of Tramp.
THE RACK 9m E3 6a
J. Grube. 1983. R. Browner, C. Cormican. 13.3.1994. (After crucial foothold broke off).
A hard direct line up the wall just right of Dirty Dick.
DAMPHOMMER 9m VS 4c
E. Widmer. 16.1.1977.
Start below the centre of the short wall just right of Dirty Dick. Pull up onto a small recessed ledge. Step up onto a large foothold and traverse right onto the arête. Continue as for Pseudo.
PSEUDO 8m S 4a
J. Colton. 16.1.1977.
Takes the right arête of the short wall. Start at the arête just right of Damphommer. Climb up onto a prominent spike and up the arête to a ledge. Step left and up to finish.